EAST COUNTY EATER: PERFECTLY SMOKED MEATS AND MORE AT PAPALO SONORAN-STYLE BBQ IN LA MESA

I'm afraid La Mesa and East County don't know what we've got here. Don't let Papalo’s fast causal status fool you. Every item on the menu has been given extensive Chef time and attention, even down to the uniquely flavored pickled veggies. No other East County establishment in this category (and most of the nicer ones) can compare.

Evidence of this was that my buddy and I, who often meet to talk and try new restaurants, only said a word maybe 15-20 minutes into the meal - only grunts and groans before that. Complex flavors like this engaged our brains as much as our mouths.

Every protein had a perfect smoke. Chef's choice of white oak's mild, rich, sweet flavors complements his unique dishes.

Let me start with the Smoked Cherry Pecan Glazed Pork Ribs - just let that description soak in a moment. The first bite into the luscious, smoky, sweet pork rib made my taste buds' eyes roll up in their heads; the chopped pecans and papalo toppings added to the unique, balanced, intricate flavors.

I love mole - all kinds. The tender, juicy smoked BBQ chicken slices wore Chef's mole like a royal robe - a match made in gastronomic heaven.

We tried a sample of that day's pork dish of the day - a pork shoulder steak. This was traditional, low-and-slow smoked BBQ at its best, with a thin, yummy bark around the moist, melt-in-your-mouth pork. 

I highly recommend the jamaica hibiscus tea as a non-alcoholic aperitif - sweet, tart, with cider spice overtones. Also, the buttery pinto beans, housemade pickles, the chips with the deep, earthly molcajete salsa, and housemade sauces were all top shelf.

I cannot wait to explore the rest of the menu - meats of the day, sandwiches, and the brisket burger! Didn't have room for dessert - next time.

I might have buried the lead, but they also have a daily pint of beer for $2 and a rotating cocktail of the month special for $5!

My only suggestion is to lose the paper plates. I know it's fast-casual, but you can imagine my despair when the plate got more of the excess meat juices than I did. 

I will be back.

Find more information at Papalo’s website: https://www.sonoranbbq.com/